Does the motor "jump" when any CV is changed?

Mark

I had similar thoughts but the OP says it can be programmed, this suggests to me that continuity to the motor ought not be a problem.

I don't have a Select, but I do have a Loksound 4 handy and when I broke continuity to the motor the decoder would not program at all.

There may be a firmware reason why it is not running, but it is still looking like there may be a issue in the drive mechanics. I would ask again if the OP has tried to run the motor in the model without the decoder connected. This only requires disconnection of one wire to the motor and application of the 9 volt battery as mentioned before.

This won't solve the ops problem but a decoder tester is a must in every serious DCC ops tool kit.

The tester saves a lot of faffing around jerry rigging this and that.

Put the decoder in the tester and op/program as if in a loco.

If it works in the tester then you know it is not the decoder and the problem is in the loco.

My decoder  tester has  saved me a lot of frutration and wasted time over the yrs.

I always test a new decoder in my tester ever before it gets put in a loco.

Cheers

Ian



Cheees

 Ian

One other thing that could possibly be wrong, the gearing is not jammed or something is stopping it rotating. If you know the motor works then check the gearing it might be stiff enough to stop it. A wild punt but it could be it. Also good advice about the wire as well you can get a broken wire in some set ups. I have had a few over the years with broken single strand wires.

Thanks for the suggestion, but have pulled out the motor and still doesn't not work. Have hooked the motor directly up to a 9v battery and the motor works fine

Mike

NSWmodellers problem sounds exactly like mine, however do you have an explanation as to why my loco would work perfectly on the SPROG II and not the layout?

NSWmodeller, have you a SPROG II or do you program on the layout?

Andrew

Not sure what a SPROG II is?

Also to NSW modeller...

Does the model have those twin caps attached?
Does the motor turn when regular DC is applied to the rails?
Check values of CV 3 (accel CV). If it's at a maximum, the loco will take a minute to move.
Check value of CV 29 (directional bit).

Though it does sound as though you've not mucked around with CVs ex factory, so it should just work.

I've found on O scale models the massive motor cap can stop the motor from moving at all. I understand that the caps work ok with the Powerline decoder, but it may be worth disconnecting them if relevant to the 48 class. The LS decoder will come with noise suppresion hardware on it anyway. Also, that fan and light board may be worth disconnecting too - I reckon it muddles with decoder programming. This issue is a little strange, as there's absolutely no signal getting to the motor by the sounds of it.

I don't use an SPROG programmer or Select decoders much, but it may also be worth asking questions on the Yahoo Groups LokSound forum.

Not sure what you are referring to in regards to the twin caps?
The motor works when I apply a 9v battery to it.
I will check CV 3 and 29

The original board, fan were removed and replaced with the Loksound Select Direct replacement board

Not sure what a SPROG II is?

A small standalone DCC system, basically (I think) around 1Amp to the track. Pretty much a very cutdown version of a NCE PowerCab.

Handy for testing!

Wolfpac

Thanks for the suggestion, but have pulled out the motor and still doesn't not work. Have hooked the motor directly up to a 9v battery and the motor works fine

Now that you have said that it sounds like a fault in the decoder by the sounds of it. If it works on DC then then it should work on DCC providing the decoder works and the wiring is correct. When you have problems the first thing they ask usually is did you test the loco on DC before installation of the decoder. This is to prove the loco works and so eliminate it from the problem when you get one like yours. It could possibly be a defective decoder, which should still be under warranty if less than 12 months old and purchased here from a model shop or something.

If you cannot get it to work then it might be wise to get it installed by an expert, you will have to pay most probably to get it done but at least it will get it to work for you.