Auscision's 422 loco

 
  Captain Underpants Train Controller


Roachie, may I ask a stupid question but have you had a look at the pickup wires on the bogies and check their connection on the board. Also have a quick look at the motor wires too as they are all held in place on the board by those slide on black clips. Maybe they are not making good connection.

On another note I have worked out the wiring for the lights and with very little effort of rewiring on the board I can split the maker lights on seperate function buttons.

Sponsored advertisement

  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)



Roachie, may I ask a stupid question but have you had a look at the pickup wires on the bogies and check their connection on the board. Also have a quick look at the motor wires too as they are all held in place on the board by those slide on black clips. Maybe they are not making good connection.

On another note I have worked out the wiring for the lights and with very little effort of rewiring on the board I can split the maker lights on seperate function buttons.

"Captain Underpants"


G'day Captain,

I thought about checking those "connections" where the wires are held onto the board by plastic push-on clamps. However, I decided against going too far into the checking process, lest I do something that might void the warranty. These locos have cost me $450- each ($275- for the loco plus $175- for the sound decoders), so I am not willing to risk stuffing something up and then having to buy a whole new (Tsunami) decoder to take the place of the Loksound and the original board. It's not as though I am desperate to have the loco running for revenue-earning purposes, so I will just wait and see what transpires. I have lost count of how many times I have removed/replaced the body shell off this loco.....reckon it would be about 20 times so far.

The good news is that despite so many on/offs, the body is still "firm" to remove, so I think the initial concern that the body might accidently fall off the chassis is unfounded.

Roachie

  Shazam75 Chief Commissioner

Location: Brisbane





Roachie, may I ask a stupid question but have you had a look at the pickup wires on the bogies and check their connection on the board. Also have a quick look at the motor wires too as they are all held in place on the board by those slide on black clips. Maybe they are not making good connection.

On another note I have worked out the wiring for the lights and with very little effort of rewiring on the board I can split the maker lights on seperate function buttons.

"Captain Underpants"


G'day Captain,

I thought about checking those "connections" where the wires are held onto the board by plastic push-on clamps. However, I decided against going too far into the checking process, lest I do something that might void the warranty. These locos have cost me $450- each ($275- for the loco plus $175- for the sound decoders), so I am not willing to risk stuffing something up and then having to buy a whole new (Tsunami) decoder to take the place of the Loksound and the original board. It's not as though I am desperate to have the loco running for revenue-earning purposes, so I will just wait and see what transpires. I have lost count of how many times I have removed/replaced the body shell off this loco.....reckon it would be about 20 times so far.

The good news is that despite so many on/offs, the body is still "firm" to remove, so I think the initial concern that the body might accidently fall off the chassis is unfounded.

Roachie

"Roachie"


You have already void your warranty by putting sound chips/ dcc in them unfortunately.

Shelton

  Captain Underpants Train Controller


Now that's exactly what I thought Shelton,

I've read that somewhere.

Roachie check the paperwork that came with the 422. I haven't got mine at the moment to check but remember also the Powerline 48's board wasn't covered under warranty in DCC and you know how bad that board was forcing us to change them thus completely voiding all warranties.

Anyway Roachie I know you are just itching to put a Tsunami in it. Ha..ha

Cheers

Captain

  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)

Okay.....I bit the bullet and took the top off yet again. I removed the dummy plug again and decided to give each one of the little plastic plugs a little "push", to ensure they were properly seated. (the ones that hold the standard wires on to the original circuit board).

To my surprise, a few of them were able to be moved a fraction of a mm further in to position. So I re-installed the sound decoder once more. Lo and behold....SUCCESS!!

I put the shell back on and again....SUCCESS.

I am presently running all three by their "short" address (ie: 3) and have them running around as a triple header without any fighting against one another.

The only small issue I now have is that with 2 of them (42205 and 42220) the headlights don't work, so there must be a dicky connection with the brass wipers not making proper contact, despite me checking that they were in the correct position and that the body of each loco is facing the correct direction. As I am not terribly worried about lighting effects, I will not be removing the shells of those 2 locos to try and fix that minor irritation....just pleased to have all 3 working and "sounding".

Roachie

  Poath Junction Chief Commissioner

Location: In front of a computer most of the time.

You have already void your warranty by putting sound chips/ dcc in them unfortunately.

Shelton

"Shazam75"


No he hasn't. Refer to the warranty information contained in the printed information sheet that accompanies the model. Installing dcc/sound will only void the warranty if that action is the cause of damage.

....the Powerline 48's board wasn't covered under warranty in DCC and you know how bad that board was forcing us to change them thus completely voiding all warranties.
"Captain Underpants"


re Powerline 48 class warranty, that has now been amended to comply with Australian Consumer Laws - the decoder is part of the item and is covered by warranty. Other illegal clauses originally contained in the Powerline warranty (eg "you must return the warranty card within xxx days from date of purchase to be covered by warranty...") have also been removed or amended to comply with Australian Consumer Laws.



  Captain Underpants Train Controller

Roachie,

Great to hear the good news, had a feeling it might have been those black clips.

Re: no headlights I had a time where I had no headlights and I found I had not pushed the body down far enough until it clicked onto the chassis which fixed my problem, so maybe have a look at that.

I also found out that the switches under the fuel tank must be on even with a decoder installed for them to work so just check that.

If still no luck and I know you don't want to remove the body again, but what's another time when you have done it do many times, check those wires and black clips again off memory (SW and TSW) marked on the board supplies power to the switches in the tank. The 3 next to those (RWK, etc) provide common and outputs to the markers. The TWA pad is the common for the headlights and TRWK / TFWK are the forward/reverse headlight output. On mine the TR and TF were wired back the front.

Why not have another go as you might surprise yourself again.

Cheers

Captain
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)



Roachie,
Great to hear the good news, had a feeling it might have been those black clips.
Re: no headlights I had a time where I had no headlights and I found I had not pushed the body down far enough until it clicked onto the chassis which fixed my problem, so maybe have a look at that.
I also found out that the switches under the fuel tank must be on even with a decoder installed for them to work so just check that.
If still no luck and I know you don't want to remove the body again, but what's another time when you have done it do many times, check those wires and black clips again off memory (SW and TSW) marked on the board supplies power to the switches in the tank. The 3 next to those (RWK, etc) provide common and outputs to the markers. The TWA pad is the common for the headlights and TRWK / TFWK are the forward/reverse headlight output. On mine the TR and TF were wired back the front.
Why not have another go as you might surprise yourself again.
Cheers
Captain

"Captain Underpants"


Okay, thanks for your thoughts Captain.....

The latest update is that all 3 of the 422s have been placed "on shed" in the roundhouse. Each one was working perfectly (lights and all) when they were shedded.

The next minor issue I will try to nut-out is with the consisting. I've got each one operating under its own road number (I drop the "4" off the front end), but when I had all 3 in a consist the lights on all 3 locos as well as the horn on each loco, would respond when the request was made. This is totally opposite to what I'm used to with Tsunami decoders.....so I'm not sure if it's a Loksound peculiarity or whether I need to alter something (eg: CV/s) for each loco in Decoder Pro.

Next time I'm out in the shed, I will try setting-up a consist with a new 422 plus a Tsunami-equipped loco (either an 80, 44, 42 or 43 etc class) and see if the Loksound 422 (which will be the 2nd loco in the consist) shows the same results as regards headlights/horn etc.

Once again, it's not a big deal and I don't want to jeopardise the current "good running" situation I am experiencing; so I'm reluctant to play silly-buggars with too many of the variables.

I would be interested to hear back from anybody else who has fitted 2 (or more) of these locos with the DCC Sound decoder/s or even "standard" Loksound decoders purchased elsewhere, as to whether they have noticed the same traits.

Roachie

  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)

In answer to my previous post (above), I have worked it out in DecoderPro (under the LIGHTING heading). There was a section that I changed from one thing to the other option and hey presto! I also worked out how to isolate the horn on the 422 when it isn't selected as the lead loco in the consist. Gee, I might finally be getting the hang of this! Wink
I also mucked around with the Speed Table, so that the 422 starts a bit more quickly, to more closely match the Tsunami 44 class I was comparing it to.

The next thing is to try to work out how to keep the sound alive without continually having to press "1". It is annoying because every time you change from one loco to another, the sound dies until I re-select that loco and press "1" again.

I know there are modellers amongst us who don't like to have all their locos "noisy" all the time, but I would much prefer them to be ON all the time, then have the option to mute individual locos. This is easy with Tsunami, as they are "sound ON" all the time, but a quick press of "8" puts them to sleep if need be.

Oh well, I will hopefully work it out in due course.

Roachie

  Captain Underpants Train Controller

Roachie,

It's interesting that it doesn't matter how old we are we are still learning something new everyday. Here is something for you to have a look at regarding having your sound on all the time.

I'm presuming DCC Sound sent you a V4.0 Loksound which I'm not familiar with as all my Loksounds are Selects but on these you can change CV 403 to 32 which leaves the sound on. Read more about it in the Select Manual under Primer Mover Sound On/Off  Behaviour I think it's on page 30-something. Not sure if the V4.0 is the same but this might give you a start to follow up.

Cheers

Captain U
  Albert Chief Commissioner


Hooray! Mine turned up today! Finally I have a decent model of my favourite Loco.

Sadly I can't play with them as the layout is out of action.

  Mansfield Deputy Commissioner

Location: Melbourne



Roachie,
It's interesting that it doesn't matter how old we are we are still learning something new everyday. Here is something for you to have a look at regarding having your sound on all the time.
I'm presuming DCC Sound sent you a V4.0 Loksound which I'm not familiar with as all my Loksounds are Selects but on these you can change CV 403 to 32 which leaves the sound on. Read more about it in the Select Manual under Primer Mover Sound On/Off Behaviour I think it's on page 30-something. Not sure if the V4.0 is the same but this might give you a start to follow up.
Cheers
Captain U

"Captain Underpants"


Yes, it can be done with the V4.0 decoder, i.e. to invert the function of the prime mover sound. It is an indexed CV so I'll have to work out the correct value for it.

  jd4980 Chief Commissioner

Location: Grafton



Let me say first that I don’t really mind what decoder sockets manufacturers use in their models, as long as I can purchase the required decoder at a reasonable price. Upon delivery of my candy 422 from Auscision, I tested it on DC. The model ran fine up and down the track with headlights and marker lights on. I then, in turn, switched the headlights and marker lights off separately and was able to control each independently.

The body was then removed in preparation of installing a decoder. I had selected a TCS EU621. This is a 21 pin, 6 function decoder. Removed the dummy plug and inserted the decoder. Could not be simpler. It was then programed to the correct number and tested. All worked fine, except when the headlights were turned on the marker lights came on as well. They are not independently controlled from the DCC controller functions. I can control them by turning the switches on and off under the locomotive, but that is not what DCC is about.

I’m sure that some of you experts in this area can remedy this, but the models should be designed with these features already incorporated.

"standard gauge"


So we've had plenty of waffle about sound installation in these units, do we have anything further regarding quietly DCCing these models besides the above. Seems disappointing that the wiring on these is a little lacking. What do others think regarding getting all possible functions working via plug and play or it this a hardwire job for best results. What decoders are others using ?

Thanks,
Joe.

  jd4980 Chief Commissioner

Location: Grafton
Anyone got anything to contribute regarding my previous post ? ^^^^^^^

Like Standard Guage, i too want independant control of all marker and headlights. Is this possible with a decoder such as the EU621 or do they need to be hardwired to acheive this because of short comings on the printed board ?
  TheBlacksmith Chief Commissioner

Location: Ankh Morpork
Anyone got anything to contribute regarding my previous post ? ^^^^^^^

Like Standard Guage, i too want independant control of all marker and headlights. Is this possible with a decoder such as the EU621 or do they need to be hardwired to acheive this because of short comings on the printed board ?
jd4980
While I cannot say for certain, independent control of all lights usually does require a complete rewire job, The on-board switches are provided such that non-DCC operators can have control over the lights.
  jd4980 Chief Commissioner

Location: Grafton
Thats my thoughts too but i'm far from an expert and hping someone more knowledgable then me can say one way or another for sure.
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

Thats my thoughts too but i'm far from an expert and hping someone more knowledgable then me can say one way or another for sure.
jd4980

The markers can be separated easily. Post explaining to follow, I'll just go and get my notes.
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

The markers can easily be separated on the existing board with only 2 soldering joints. They can be switched on/off using 2 function buttons. However, you are restricted to having them either off or front white/rear red on or rear white/front red on. Or you can any other combo that can be wired using only 2 AUX tabs switching on/off using 2 function buttons.

I have worked out the wiring on the 422s and have a complete list of my findings but this is what you need to do for the marker lights.

1. Remove the 21 pin dummy plug.
2. Once removed you will see 2 pads marked AX1 and AX2 on the board. They output around 12.6V and can be mapped to function buttons. Let's say F5 and F6.
3. Front markers (No.1 End) remove the brown wire from RWK. Red Marker
4. Rear markers (No.2 End) remove the black wire from FRK. White Marker
5. Join them together and solder to AX2.
6. Front markers (No.1 End) remove the black wire from RRK. White Marker
7. Rear markers (No.2 End) remove the brown wire from FWK. Red Marker
8. Join them together and solder to AX1.
9. The wires attached to RWA and FWA are the marker light common.
10. Install your 21 pin DCC decoder.
11. Program AX1 to F5 and AX2 to F6 function buttons.
12. The markers now can be switched on/off and will work as I described above.

The resistors for the LEDs appear to be on the light boards in the wireless body in which I have not removed to check. My conclusion is because TFWK and TRWK pads output around 11.5V. The TWA is the common. These pads supply the voltage to the light boards in the wireless body therefore the 11.5V must be reduced on the light boards.

Hope this helps
  mynameismike Deputy Commissioner

Location: /dev/adelaide/magill
I've put some comparison photos up on my flickr page.
Here's a few of them;

For me one of the issues is the candy scheme.  Every company seems to have a different view on it.  Austrains 80 is different from their 442, Auscision's 422 is different from their 73 (different factories, I suspect).  Trainorama to their credit have almost identical colours on all three of the candy locos I purchased from them, although the yellow stripe is too yellow.  Having said that, Auscision have it too orange!  Will anyone ever get it right??

Regards all,
Toby
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dq2004/
DQ2004


The detail in your second photo that jumped out the most was that of the staff exchanger.  
I'm not sure if it was the same with your locomotives out to the east, but it was frequently the case that a consist of several green and gold AN locomotives would show an individual shade of green.  Indeed, in my own collection of models the green on my DL's is a different shade of green than that on the EL.
I would not be surprised to find that most, if not all of the different shades of the candy  scheme were correct at one stage or another.
  jd4980 Chief Commissioner

Location: Grafton
The markers can easily be separated on the existing board with only 2 soldering joints. They can be switched on/off using 2 function buttons. However, you are restricted to having them either off or front white/rear red on or rear white/front red on. Or you can any other combo that can be wired using only 2 AUX tabs switching on/off using 2 function buttons.

I have worked out the wiring on the 422s and have a complete list of my findings but this is what you need to do for the marker lights.

1. Remove the 21 pin dummy plug.
2. Once removed you will see 2 pads marked AX1 and AX2 on the board. They output around 12.6V and can be mapped to function buttons. Let's say F5 and F6.
3. Front markers (No.1 End) remove the brown wire from RWK. Red Marker
4. Rear markers (No.2 End) remove the black wire from FRK. White Marker
5. Join them together and solder to AX2.
6. Front markers (No.1 End) remove the black wire from RRK. White Marker
7. Rear markers (No.2 End) remove the brown wire from FWK. Red Marker
8. Join them together and solder to AX1.
9. The wires attached to RWA and FWA are the marker light common.
10. Install your 21 pin DCC decoder.
11. Program AX1 to F5 and AX2 to F6 function buttons.
12. The markers now can be switched on/off and will work as I described above.

The resistors for the LEDs appear to be on the light boards in the wireless body in which I have not removed to check. My conclusion is because TFWK and TRWK pads output around 11.5V. The TWA is the common. These pads supply the voltage to the light boards in the wireless body therefore the 11.5V must be reduced on the light boards.

Hope this helps
Captain Underpants
Excellent, Thank You !!!! That is helpful.

But in essence, if reading ones options correctly i can't have red markers both ends while shunting, then depart once train is made up with headlight on and white markers on the front, all lights out on the rear?
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

JD4980, if that's what you want to do try putting front white markers on AX1 and both front and rear red markers on AX2. Headlights remain unchanged. Disconnect rear white markers , you will not be able to use them. Headlights will still be directional on/ off with F0 with the option to turn on/off front white markers with F5 and all red markers on/off with F6 for shunting.  This should be a simple change to the existing board otherwise a full rewire will have to be done.

Cheers
  jd4980 Chief Commissioner

Location: Grafton
Ok thanks, shall have a bit of a play with those senarios.
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

I've done it. I have worked out how to separate the markers for individual control in DCC. I now can have front and back red markers for shunting and still have the white markers functioning when they are needed.

I'll put together my 'how to notes' for those interested
  drib72 Station Staff

Location: Under the radar
Great work Captain!!!!  Look forward to your notes....
  mixter Beginner

I've done it. I have worked out how to separate the markers for individual control in DCC. I now can have front and back red markers for shunting and still have the white markers functioning when they are needed.

I'll put together my 'how to notes' for those interested
"Captain Underpants"


Well done!

Mick

Sponsored advertisement

Display from:   

Quick Reply

We've disabled Quick Reply for this thread as it was last updated more than six months ago.