Austrains 36 Class

 
  beyerpeacock Assistant Commissioner

Location: Gorton Foundry
Hi all,

Over the long weekend I purchased a Belpaire weathered C36 from the Austrains stand. Just got home to whack it on my layout to give it a run and no movement. Headlight works but not the slightest hint of movement.

Any hints to fix the problem?

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  VRfan Moderator

Location: In front of my computer :-p
Have you checked to make sure that the wheels are clean or the contacts are clean?

I got a T class a while ago that would have been floating around with Austrains for a year or more and when I put it on the track there was no response. I moved the wheels around a little bit and it worked after that. Took a little bit to run it in. I guessed that being stored for that long without use, perhaps the area where the blocks on the axles connected with the bogie frames might have become a little bit dirty.

If you still can't get it going, then check the wiring. One or more of the wires might be loose.
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
Just reviving an old thread......

I recently bought an Austrains 36 class; DCC ready. I briefly tested it on a short section (36") of DC track and it ran smoothly back and forth.

I then pulled the tender apart and removed the factory light board as well as the short "jumper" with the 8 pin socket because I was fitting a Tsunami 750 for  D&RGW "K" class. This decoder had no plug, hence the removal of the adaptor. The 4 wires (2 for motor, 2 for pick-up.....I removed the wiring for the headlight; no desire for lights) from the decoder were attached (soldered) to the correct positions on the top side of the floor-mounted plug that the loco wiring loom plugs in to.

On the loco itself I removed the body shell and inserted a thin piece of plastic card between the metal chassis and the lower motor tab to ensure there was no possibility of the motor shorting out on the chassis.  

I am in the process of adding wipers to the tender bogie wheels to increase the pick-up potential. Thanks to Linton for arranging to send me a piece of .4mm phosphor bronze wire so I can do this part of the job. I am hoping that the addition of these extra wipers will cure the strange problem I am experiencing with this model......

I have tried running the model around my largish (and dusty) layout. Even on the sections of track that I have scrupulously cleaned, the loco runs very smoothly one minute and then stops briefly, then flies off again. I should add that the decoder is mounted in the top of the tender, under the removable coal load....so I am able to monitor the decoder's red LED most of the time. On some of those occasions when the loco stops abruptly, the red LED is still glowing, so I figure that the decoder is still getting power. I did add the optional 220uF capacitor that was supplied with the decoder, so perhaps it is that which is keeping the red LED glowing whilst the loco is stopped for a second. Before I even get a chance to raise my hand to nudge the loco into life again, it will resume at previous set speed. There is definitely no binding of the mechanism....it runs as smoothly as any steam loco I've ever owned, built or worked on over the past 40 years.

I can set the loco on my wheel-cleaning gizmo (Trak-Rite by Woodlands Scenics mob) and once it starts running in that one position, it will continue on without any hiccups, so I know it's not the decoder over-heating etc. I keep coming back to the lack of pick-up wheels, so won't worry too much more until I have the extra wipers added.

If that fails to totally cure the woes, I might have to look into adding a TCS KA2 (keep alive), but not sure how that would be wired up; I'm guessing it would not be as easy as substituting the KA2 for the little 220uF I currently have....but I will keep my fingers crossed!!!

As for traction, I was reasonably happy with the locos performance on a moderate grade. I shortened the spring on the front bogie (it's a bloody long bugger!!!) by about 4mm, so it is just enough to prevent the very light bogie from derailing. I must say here that the loco tracks very well and negotiated my less-than-perfect turnouts and diamond crossings without any issues, other than the stuttering. I've also added a front Kadee, using a chopped one designed to slide into a Marklin housing. The mounting bracket section of this type of Kadee is very low, so I was able to mount it under the buffer beam without cutting any of the beam away.

Anyway, I shall report again with my findings once the tender has been doctored.

Roachie
  aussieloco Junior Train Controller

Just reviving an old thread......

I recently bought an Austrains 36 class; DCC ready. I briefly tested it on a short section (36") of DC track and it ran smoothly back and forth.

I then pulled the tender apart and removed the factory light board as well as the short "jumper" with the 8 pin socket because I was fitting a Tsunami 750 for  D&RGW "K" class. This decoder had no plug, hence the removal of the adaptor. The 4 wires (2 for motor, 2 for pick-up.....I removed the wiring for the headlight; no desire for lights) from the decoder were attached (soldered) to the correct positions on the top side of the floor-mounted plug that the loco wiring loom plugs in to.

On the loco itself I removed the body shell and inserted a thin piece of plastic card between the metal chassis and the lower motor tab to ensure there was no possibility of the motor shorting out on the chassis.  

I am in the process of adding wipers to the tender bogie wheels to increase the pick-up potential. Thanks to Linton for arranging to send me a piece of .4mm phosphor bronze wire so I can do this part of the job. I am hoping that the addition of these extra wipers will cure the strange problem I am experiencing with this model......

I have tried running the model around my largish (and dusty) layout. Even on the sections of track that I have scrupulously cleaned, the loco runs very smoothly one minute and then stops briefly, then flies off again. I should add that the decoder is mounted in the top of the tender, under the removable coal load....so I am able to monitor the decoder's red LED most of the time. On some of those occasions when the loco stops abruptly, the red LED is still glowing, so I figure that the decoder is still getting power. I did add the optional 220uF capacitor that was supplied with the decoder, so perhaps it is that which is keeping the red LED glowing whilst the loco is stopped for a second. Before I even get a chance to raise my hand to nudge the loco into life again, it will resume at previous set speed. There is definitely no binding of the mechanism....it runs as smoothly as any steam loco I've ever owned, built or worked on over the past 40 years.

I can set the loco on my wheel-cleaning gizmo (Trak-Rite by Woodlands Scenics mob) and once it starts running in that one position, it will continue on without any hiccups, so I know it's not the decoder over-heating etc. I keep coming back to the lack of pick-up wheels, so won't worry too much more until I have the extra wipers added.

If that fails to totally cure the woes, I might have to look into adding a TCS KA2 (keep alive), but not sure how that would be wired up; I'm guessing it would not be as easy as substituting the KA2 for the little 220uF I currently have....but I will keep my fingers crossed!!!

As for traction, I was reasonably happy with the locos performance on a moderate grade. I shortened the spring on the front bogie (it's a bloody long bugger!!!) by about 4mm, so it is just enough to prevent the very light bogie from derailing. I must say here that the loco tracks very well and negotiated my less-than-perfect turnouts and diamond crossings without any issues, other than the stuttering. I've also added a front Kadee, using a chopped one designed to slide into a Marklin housing. The mounting bracket section of this type of Kadee is very low, so I was able to mount it under the buffer beam without cutting any of the beam away.

Anyway, I shall report again with my findings once the tender has been doctored.

Roachie
Roachie
Hi Roachie
I did the same as you with my 36 class and had the same problems but when cleaning the wheels make sure the flanges are clean as well as that helps with pick up. Also a cotton bud dipped in WD40 or crc wiped on the wheels helps with the pick up. Added weight to the tender also helps, flat sheet of lead or whatever ,but not to much or the loco wont haul  you can work that out yourself ,hope this helps
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

Hi Bill,

I have done a few C36 locos with the K Class decoder and they run and sound great. I even put a smoke generator in one. They definitely need the extra pickups on the tender to improve their running so don't worry at the moment until you complete it. Also just check the motor wire connections in the loco as I had one that would stop/ start and found that to be the problem.
I have some pics so I'll send them to you tonight.
  Captain Underpants Train Controller

Hi beyerpeacock,

Check the motor wiring connections in the loco. I've had one with bad connections which I had to fix on the motor.

If problem is still happens check the motor wiring in the tender it may have a bad connection there instead

Cheers
Captain
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
Being the impatient buggar that I am, I decided get stuck in to adding the additional pick-up wipers using the Kadee centering spring plates as per the write-up here:http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/
The job took just over an hour from go to whoa. With some trepidation I placed the 36 on the layout, fired-up the NCE system and cracked the throttle.

After 3 complete circuits of the layout, including the most troublesome sections which comprise various combinations of Insulfrog turnouts and diamond crossings, the verdict is: SUCCESS!!!!

Not once did this little loco stutter or falter. The difference from yesterday to today was nothing short of astounding.

I should add that I did also re-solder a couple of the connections in the firebox....one of the motor leads and one of the chassis pick-ups. It's not that they were broken; they just seemed to be only holding on by a few strands of the tiny wire. I also added a few very small drops of CRC 2-26 to the plug under the tender to ensure that the pins were making good conductivity.

Thanks for all the advice and ideas....

Roachie
  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
Good move about resoldering the wires Bill I had one years ago that was holding on by the last strand almost it worked perfectly for the first lap but then stopped and would not work at all this was on DC by the way. That single strand of wire had acted like a fuse and simply burned out. I resoldered it and away it went again no problems at all. Also on any Chinese made locomotive check all solder joints some are shocking or even not even soldered, I have a couple so far like this.

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