Sorry mate, gotta disagree about the inner bogies of the Eureka 60 class. They only pivot in one spot and have no lateral movement available to them.OOPpPS! so long since my garratt was out of the box that I forget how it ran. The aspect though is that this did allow a more floating aspect to the bogie.
With regard to the R class rear bogie, my idea (as stated in my first response earlier in this thread), would be to attach a lateral cross member between the 2 side frame with a central hole to accept a M2 bolt. Then I would fabricate a short drawbar.....the distance between the 2 holes being the distance between the existing/original mounting hole and the new lateral mounting hole. This drawbar may possibly need to have a slight goose-neck in it so that it clears the front axle (either above or below). This is the way I cured my Canberra mate's brass C&O locos several years ago. He had various articulated and non-articulated brass locos with rear bogies identical to the one shown in the pics of the R class on this thread (except that they were heavier, being brass castings). Once I made the drawbar, it was just a case of slicing off the original forward protrusion of the bogie.
Ideally, it would be preferable fit a white metal bogie from a kit (SEM?) so that the adding of weight would not be necessary.
If the owner would rather do it the way Terry Flynn described (ie: elongate the original hole laterally), then I have another idea......
This 2nd option would also require the original hole to be sliced off altogether. Once that portion of the bogie is removed, I would fabricate a new piece (either styrene, brass or preferrably lead). This new piece would have a roughly rectangular shape and three holes. Two of the holes would be very small; to accept 14ba bolts. The third hole is the new mounting section, and would have the slightly elongated lateral hole to fit the original mounting point on the chassis. This new piece would then be bolted to the top of the bogie (to the front cross member just behind where the old hole was cut off) using 2 14ba bolts. This modifications solves 2.5 problems:
(1) it addresses the height issue, by having the new lateral hole situated ABOVE where the original bogie hole was, thus lowering the front of the bogie so the front wheels will rest on the rails .
(2) the lateral hole will allow the bogie to find it's own "happy place" on the track without needing to trail EXACTLY behind the 3rd set of drivers.
(.5) the weight of this new piece (if you use lead flashing) will go part way to adding some weight to the bogie. You would still need to attach some extra lead flashing to the rear cross member.
Still it all comes back to how the model was designed, & while I will not be getting one, given the time its taken for it to get here, as others have said, its something that should have been worked out in that time.