Received my 2 421s today and immediately removed the top off 42103 to start the process of hardwiring a Tsunami sound decoder.
I'm curious as to whether anybody has yet ascertained what the various lighting wires are? (ie: which is common/white marker/red marker etc). The main wires are all self explanatory, so if nobody knows then I will just wire-up the pick-ups, speaker and motor wires, then proceed to experiment with the lights. The only one that should be easy will be the rear headlight as it has 2 straightforward wires.
If anybody is interested, I will be giving-away the 2 standard boards in due course.......I strip-out the standard board and hardwire the Tsunami direct.
Given the lack of responses I'm guessing that I might be the first person to have installed a TSU1000 decoder. I fiddled around with the wires and managed to work it out to operate MY way.
Probably won't suit the more fastidious modelers in our ranks because, although Auscision have gone that extra mile and separated the marker/numberboard lights from the headlights, I decided to just wire them up so that pressing "Headlight ON" would light-up all the white lights on one end as well as the red lights at the opposite end. Swap directions and the lights change (of course); same as the other end.
For the capacitor, I changed the wires to more flexible ones and ran them underneath the decoder (ie: I attached the new wires to the underside after I drilled a 0.5mm hole where the solder tabs are for the cap to attach). I mounted the cap inside a short length of square Plastruct (they make a size that is a perfect fit for the Tsunami cap). This is shaped to fit the space, attached to a piece of flat styrene sheet so that the cap actually sits in the area above the front drive shaft, just ahead of the flywheel.....fits perfectly.
I know the purists will want to utilise the F5 and F6 buttons so that they can choose to have just the markers/numberboards on (without the headlights), but that is too much fiddling around for me when it comes to running my trains....although easy enough to do the initial wiring (or so I would expect).
The only useful info I can provide is to say that the light boards have their own resistors built in, so no need to add a 1K resistor to your wiring.
I guess most people will opt for the ESU 21 pin decoder, but I bought my Tsunamis from the states when the exchange rate was around $1.05, so I only paid around A$80- (landed) for the Tsunamis and I simply can't justify the $180- being asked for the authentic sound board from DCC Sound. I opted for the EMD645 which is wrong (I knew when I bought them), but sounds okay to me AND is different to the 2 Trainorama 42 class I have, which have EMD567 sound boards fitted.
Tomorrow I will do the 2nd 421; should be quicker and easier now that I know what to do.