Air brushing

  prewett Junior Train Controller

Location: Albury, NSW
I have just started seriously using my Sparmax ac100 with a Paaschs single action air brush and having problems with the air pressure.

When using the smallest brush the pressure drops off and cannot sustain more than 20lbs the larger larger nozzles just do not work.

I had thought about adding a tank of some kind on the the output has any one done so and how.

Any suggestions or advise please on how to set my system up so that it works!!

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  sparks Assistant Commissioner

Location: melbourne
I had a similar air compressor to yours and it would give intermittent air flow I ended up selling it and buying a large air compressor and setting up a bench with a regulator and it gives more than enough air.

  wrongroad Deputy Commissioner

Location: Grafton
G'day prewett,
It is always better to have equipment that is more than able to do the job.
I have a paasch single action air brush and I find that it works at it's best at around the 30 - 35 psi mark. Others may find a different pressure works best for them.
I fiddle a little with the pressure to get the finish that I want.
I also have a regulator and a water trap in the line. In fact there is a regulator on the compressor, one in the line and one on the water trap.
Trying to add an accumulator tank to your current unit might become dangerous and will not solve your problem. If the compressor can not punch more than 20psi, then adding a tank is a waste of time. It will not make it give you more pressure.
Compressors are not all that dear to buy, so I advise you to buy a new system to suit your needs. Not modify something.
Think of what you might need and then add 25% to it.
And always think safety first. Get your self a good respirator as well.
Regards and respect
  alltrainzfan Chief Commissioner

Location: Here
My bike tire is fixed now and I'm ready to start airbrushing. However, looking even more closely to my airbrush, it comes without instructions. Can someone tell me please how my type of airbrush works?
And it's the Single action beginners set. I believe it's sort of ready to run (ie. pull out of package, connect the hose to the bike tire and put the paint tin onto the bottom bit), but I just want to make sure. Thanks.
  SA_trains Deputy Commissioner

Location: ACT

I recommend a visit to your local supacheap auto or Bunnings or similar business. These places are selling good cheap air compressors for about $100. This will get you a 2HP compressor with a 20-24 litre tank.

I use one of these with the pressure around the 30-35 PSI for most jobs and it works very well. At that pressure you can do a lot of painting before reducing the "air" in the tank, and it starts pumping up the tank again. These smaller tanks do not take very long to re-charge either.

A non-model side benefit is that these compressors will work with most air tools. (except high pressure spray guns). I have used nail guns, pumped up tyres all most successfully.

Wrong road (and others) recommend a water trap on a compressor. This is sound advice though not essential. I do not have a water trap and have not had much problem with water spotting in the paint. I may be lucky, but it is more likely that I live in a dry environment! If you are in a coastal or tropical region, (or an area with high humidity) a water trap will be ESSENTIAL !

Good luck, once you paint with an airbrush, you'll LOVE IT!
  Turbdtx3 Junior Train Controller

Location: AirportWest, Melbourne
if u have a largish (eg non hobby) sized compressor such as the bunnings ones how do u get the appropriate fittings to reduce the pressure and size of the pipe to a small airbrush??
and what do thesee fittings usually cost?
  wongm GEEWONG

Location: Geelong, Victoria
if u have a largish sized compressor such as the bunnings ones how do u get the appropriate fittings to reduce the pressure and size of the pipe to a small airbrush??
Most compressors should have a regulator on them - that cuts down the pressure, and most airbrushes should come with a pipe adapter that changes from the big thread off the compressor to the small hose that comes with the airbrush.
  supersix Deputy Commissioner

Location: Heathcote N.S.W.
superchaep sells a asorted air fitting pack that usually cand be fitted to your air brush lead. (i will post photos of mine soon)
  Turbdtx3 Junior Train Controller

Location: AirportWest, Melbourne
thanks guys, ive always thought about an airbrush.. maybe get one before i start my layout, and along with the other assorted tools.
Very Happy
  Geekboy Train Controller

Location: Banned
I think Wrongroad had the most valuable piece of advice here: get a good respirator, and use it (they are peanuts compared to the rest of the gear).  Compressors come, & compressors will go; but a good set of lungs......

As for the airbrush, look after the tips, and replace damaged ones ASAP.  Get a good regulator/moisture trap, and practice on some old shells first.

And finally, and airbrush is NOT the be-all-and-end-all of weathering.

Ahh, that feels better.
  wrongroad Deputy Commissioner

Location: Grafton
G'day gang,
Just a quick note here.
I was spraying the other weekend (just doing touch ups and a bit of weathering). For the first hour I got no water out of the water trap, as the weather changed outside, in the next hour I drained nearly 100mls.
Water traps are not really needed, I agree, but I have had to respray a model before I got one and never had to since. Maybe I have become better at spraying Question
And for your God's sake, get a respirator. The most vital piece of safety gear you will ever buy. I have a twin filter system but a good single will do the job.
A must get item.
Regards and respect to all.
  kendall_dillon Station Master

While on the topic of spray painting.  From time to time when spray painting, the finished paint job is really glossy.  Even when other spray jobs are fine.

I am speaking mostly of Stream Era wagon red paints and steam era models but I don't think the paint has anything to do with it.

I suspect it could be perhaps a little bit of turps left in the spray gun after cleaning, or water in the system.

I have a large builders compression with a regulator and water trap.

And finally, is it advisable to paint wagon models with etch primer first, or is this just for brass/metal kits?
  TrainTree Train Controller

Location: Eltham
I tend to go over the SEM kits with a clear matt finish after applying the decals.

This gets rid of the shine and helps hide the decal shine as well.

I've never used a primer on the plastic models but I keep seeing other models which have been primed first and the result is much better.

I'm usually too keen to get the model up and running as quickly as possible.  Waiting for a primer, paint, decals then matt finish is just too long... Having said that, the models I've taken my time over have far better results.

BTW, I've also found brush painting when done well can give a model more character than air brush. Especially if you want them to look a bit weathered and used.


Just my humble opinion.

  michaelgreenhill Administrator That's Numberwang!

Location: Melbourne
Priming a model doesn't delay things that much. On a good day (today would be a perfect day for painting!), a freshly-primed model is ready for painting within 30-60 mins, depending on the type of primer used and the amount applied.

When I paint my models, I try to spray a bit of spare plastic at the same time I paint the models, so I can use as a guide to how dry the paint is.

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