Static grass generator

 
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

Hi, has anyone used the newer improved Neg Ion Generator that Oakley Electronices is selling?

I assume the small black and red wires are for the power input and the green wire goes on the grounding pin, which leaves the large Red wire with a small plastic brush attached to be connected to a wire screen.

If this is so, do I remove the brush and solder the wire to the screen?

Cheers

Chris

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  boss260 Junior Train Controller

G'day Chris,
             I have one on order and expect delivery in the next day or so. Will let you know how it works after it arrives.

Cheers

Hayden
  tajamr Chief Train Controller

Location: Putting up with AC4000's crap
Hi, has anyone used the newer improved Neg Ion Generator that Oakley Electronices is selling?

I assume the small black and red wires are for the power input and the green wire goes on the grounding pin, which leaves the large Red wire with a small plastic brush attached to be connected to a wire screen.

If this is so, do I remove the brush and solder the wire to the screen?

Cheers

Chris
"spiritofprogress"


Was wondering that myself, I am assuming the green is ground and the red with the covered end is the power for your screen.
What power supply are you going to use?
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

I planned on using a 9 volt battery as Oakley Electronics said it would be ok. However I was going to test it with a smaller 1.5 volt battery when trying to work out which wires are what for safety incase I couldn't get an answer from the forum.

Chris
  a6et Minister for Railways

I use a small 9.5 volt battery pack on my applicator.  While a standard battery is ok, I don't know how long they last, so I just went through all the power packs I have, & found one that is the same as a standard battery.

I also had a kill switch put into the tube, that meant you hold the button in to create the power, & then it kills the power when you take your thumb off. I see that as a safety device that ensures there is no accidental power when not being used & the unit is put to the side.
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

I think I will use a momentary switch as well and will also look into putting a plug adaptor for a power supply in the end cap.

Did you have the brush on the end of one lead as well?

Chris
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
I recently hand built a negative ion generator, the result I achieved was not as good as I'd hoped, but then it was a really rough prototype.

I now have five of the Oatley generators on order, I will let you know how I connect them up when I get them.

The nominal input for these is 7.5v, you will probably be okay running from a 9v battery, but I would not run 9v into it from a plug pack.

A kill switch would be an ABSOLUTE must 12kV (or more) even from a small device like this should be taken seriously.
  a6et Minister for Railways

I think I will use a momentary switch as well and will also look into putting a plug adaptor for a power supply in the end cap.

Did you have the brush on the end of one lead as well?

Chris
"spiritofprogress"


Mine is made using Poly pipe stem 55mm with matching caps.  I inted making another one with a larger head for wider areas.  

The mesh I used is from a downpipe that has stainless steel filter mesh in it, cut to size & epoxied into the cap cut out.

The kill switch is a pressure sensitive type in the closed end cap.

Wiring as follows using the Oatley power device.

Large white wire to mesh.

Red wire to the power pack plug, with black to one contact on the switch, & another black wire to the switch itself.

We used a white wire soldered to the black wire on the plug to go out of the tube & is around one metre in length with a one inch (25mm) flat head nail soldered to the wire.

The method I use for applying the static grass is to lay a coating of diluted PVA glue with Matte Medium included in it ( that helps eliminate any waxy look that some PVA glues have)  I set the nail into the area that is wet for the earthing of it, or if doing small sections I wet another spot nearby with straight water & put the nail in there.

Whilst the usual method of putting the grass into the applicator is quite good, it tends to also stick to the mesh owing to the elecrical affect. Also the constant tapping of the applicator makes the arm & hand ache. (Yeah I know I am a sook, but I also believe in making things as easy as possible).  

The method I now use for larger areas is to simply apply the glue/medium water mixture to the surface & then sprinkle the grass onto the the mix. I then run the applicator head slowly across the top of the grass about 25mm high, this lifts the grass in varying degrees from pure vertical & aspects of laying down. I then reverse the movement & continue until I get my desired effect.

What also happened is that some of the grass will take up on the mesh from areas that are too dry, & the glue not takeing the fibres. I find this better as I know what parts to redo, & it means that you do not have as much loose & therefore potentially floating fibres on the layout.

If you want mixed heights, start with the shortest fibre & then increase in sizes with each pass that you want to achieve with higher grasses..

I use Parfix PVA from Bunnings, 5 litres at less than the price of Selleys, its thicker glue & can be thinned more, its also made by Selleys & no worse quality but I think its better.

There is a group of paint places called Paint Wholesalers of Australia, they sell a product that is the same thing as Matte Medium call Perma Plastic, its not cheap but a lot cheaper than what you get at Art shops, also it is great for using as a clear glue for trees.

I use a mix of 3-2- 5 of glue, medium -water.
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia

A kill switch would be an ABSOLUTE must 12kV (or more) even from a small device like this should be taken seriously.
"Aaron"


I made one following Joe Fugate's device.  I used a push button to activate it as I did not want the device on constetly with any danger.

Regards,
David Head
  Mansfield Deputy Commissioner

Location: Melbourne

A kill switch would be an ABSOLUTE must 12kV (or more) even from a small device like this should be taken seriously.
"Aaron"


I made one following Joe Fugate's device.  I used a push button to activate it as I did not want the device on constetly with any danger.

Regards,
David Head
"dthead"


David,
Any results you can share?
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia

A kill switch would be an ABSOLUTE must 12kV (or more) even from a small device like this should be taken seriously.
"Aaron"


I made one following Joe Fugate's device.  I used a push button to activate it as I did not want the device on constetly with any danger.

Regards,
David Head
"dthead"


David,
Any results you can share?
"Mansfield"


I wouildlove to but two things are stopping me from being my usual helpful self.

The device works, we tried a tiny area or Murranbilla. But the layout is with another club and no photos....

The device was snapped up by anothert member to borrow, who has used all my stock of grass as well (and paid for it).

So It is elsewhere and I have not used it myself yet !!!   It works.

And the push button means you have to hold it to use it, a safety precaution we all must think of.

Regards,
David Head
  a6et Minister for Railways


A kill switch would be an ABSOLUTE must 12kV (or more) even from a small device like this should be taken seriously.
"Aaron"


I made one following Joe Fugate's device.  I used a push button to activate it as I did not want the device on constetly with any danger.

Regards,
David Head
"dthead"


David,
Any results you can share?
"Mansfield"


I wouildlove to but two things are stopping me from being my usual helpful self.

The device works, we tried a tiny area or Murranbilla. But the layout is with another club and no photos....

The device was snapped up by anothert member to borrow, who has used all my stock of grass as well (and paid for it).

So It is elsewhere and I have not used it myself yet !!!   It works.

And the push button means you have to hold it to use it, a safety precaution we all must think of.

Regards,
David Head
"dthead"


& thats the exact method I use but call it the kill switch.  Release the pressure on the switch/button & it kills the power
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

Dave,

does your homemade unit have a metal disk near the neck of the plastic cup as the Noch unit does.  Their instructions say its a special coating that helps improve the power of the static but I have my doubts that it maybe just sales blurb.

Chris
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
No it doesn't.  If I get it back I'll  take a few snaps of it. Meanwhile others here have indicarted they too have building a device. They may share their work too.

As I said mine came fromJoe Fugate, try googling him and static generator and see what you find....

Regards,
David Head
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

Dave,

I have the article.  Also to those out there that own the real unit. Question: why does the handle rotate part way around? There is a slot in the handle I assume to raise or lower the disk closer to the sieve in the end of the cup.

Would that be a correct assumption?

Chris
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
I will let you know how I connect them up when I get them.
"Aaron"


Power into the small red and black wires. Large green is EHT ground and large red is B+
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
Dave,

I have the article.  Also to those out there that own the real unit. Question: why does the handle rotate part way around? There is a slot in the handle I assume to raise or lower the disk closer to the sieve in the end of the cup.

Would that be a correct assumption?

Chris
"spiritofprogress"


My unit is solid.  Only the lid at the bottom comes off to load the static material.

Regards,
David Head
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

I will let you know how I connect them up when I get them.
"Aaron"


Power into the small red and black wires. Large green is EHT ground and large red is B+
"Aaron"


Hi Aaron I was hoping someone may have started to build one by now. What does EHT mean?

Also Large red is B+  is this B mean the brush on the end?

Sorry I'm a little lost.

Cheers

Chris
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
I will let you know how I connect them up when I get them.
"Aaron"


Power into the small red and black wires. Large green is EHT ground and large red is B+
"Aaron"


Hi Aaron I was hoping someone may have started to build one by now. What does EHT mean?

Also Large red is B+  is this B mean the brush on the end?

Sorry I'm a little lost.

Cheers

Chris
"spiritofprogress"


I have started building mine, no serious progress yet though, just been collecting parts so far.

EHT stands for Extra High Tension, a fancy electrical term for 'lots of volts'. Green is the ground side of the EHT, B+ (Beta +) is an old term for describing the positive lead in a high voltage DC circuit. I should not have used the B+ label, that was incorrect (the red lead is actually well negative with respect to ground!).

The red wire is the source of the negative ions, I should have called it -EHT but that might confuse more... Suffice to say, the red (-EHT) wire goes to your seive screen, green (EHT ground) wire should connect to the back (battery/power supply negative) wire, this wire then needs to exit your unit to attach to the nail or whatever that you stake into your layout, leaving the thin red wire to be connected to your battery/power supply positive.
  spiritofprogress Junior Train Controller

Thanks Aaron,

that makes more sense. Now all I hope is I get some time over the small Christmas break to make a start on the unit.

Cheers

Chris
  anzac1959 Chief Commissioner

Hi does anyone know where these are available locally Oatley list it out of stock .Also any pics of layed grass and does it do longer tufts aswell
Pictures if available please.
TIA anzac
  a6et Minister for Railways

Hi does anyone know where these are available locally Oatley list it out of stock .Also any pics of layed grass and does it do longer tufts aswell
Pictures if available please.
TIA anzac
"anzac1959"


Anzac

Give Oatley a ring & see how long before they are in stock. I think it would be worth the wait.

I have just done some new grassing, & noticed the screws holding the unit in place inside the tube were loose, then noticed one of the lugs had broken.  I resecured the unit with one end, & noticed the disadvantage of using pipe, as screwing in the unit creates some pressure as it is flat & the pipe is naturally oval, with it secured by one screw I filled the rear of it with clear roof & gutte silicone to hold it tight but it will also come out if needed.

I am not sure how it would work with tuffs, but if the tuffs are of the same type of material I would not think it would not work.

Also it does work with the various lengthes of static grasses, as I use all the available lengths in the colours suitable for my layouts, without any issues. Use the longer ones first, then build up with each size, & the short ones on top.

To get the high & low affects, do the areas in a spotting style, a bit more fidly but works.  Again use the long fibres first & then let dry, & add more to gain the extra height with respray & applications.

On method I did use was to get some cheap grass mats, & finely scrap off some layers of the grass to thin it out, then apply the grass off it by the applicator as its also static grass as well.
  a6et Minister for Railways

Hi does anyone know where these are available locally Oatley list it out of stock .Also any pics of layed grass and does it do longer tufts aswell
Pictures if available please.
TIA anzac
"anzac1959"


Anzac

Give Oatley a ring & see how long before they are in stock. I think it would be worth the wait.

I have just done some new grassing, & noticed the screws holding the unit in place inside the tube were loose, then noticed one of the lugs had broken.  I resecured the unit with one end, & noticed the disadvantage of using pipe, as screwing in the unit creates some pressure as it is flat & the pipe is naturally oval, with it secured by one screw I filled the rear of it with clear roof & gutte silicone to hold it tight but it will also come out if needed.

I am not sure how it would work with tuffs, but if the tuffs are of the same type of material I would not think it would not work.

Also it does work with the various lengthes of static grasses, as I use all the available lengths in the colours suitable for my layouts, without any issues. Use the longer ones first, then build up with each size, & the short ones on top.

To get the high & low affects, do the areas in a spotting style, a bit more fidly but works.  Again use the long fibres first & then let dry, & add more to gain the extra height with respray & applications.

On method I did use was to get some cheap grass mats, & finely scrap off some layers of the grass to thin it out, then apply the grass off it by the applicator as its also static grass as well.
  anzac1959 Chief Commissioner

Hi does anyone know where these are available locally Oatley list it out of stock .Also any pics of layed grass and does it do longer tufts aswell
Pictures if available please.
TIA anzac
"anzac1959"


Anzac

Give Oatley a ring & see how long before they are in stock. I think it would be worth the wait.

I have just done some new grassing, & noticed the screws holding the unit in place inside the tube were loose, then noticed one of the lugs had broken.  I resecured the unit with one end, & noticed the disadvantage of using pipe, as screwing in the unit creates some pressure as it is flat & the pipe is naturally oval, with it secured by one screw I filled the rear of it with clear roof & gutte silicone to hold it tight but it will also come out if needed.

I am not sure how it would work with tuffs, but if the tuffs are of the same type of material I would not think it would not work.

Also it does work with the various lengthes of static grasses, as I use all the available lengths in the colours suitable for my layouts, without any issues. Use the longer ones first, then build up with each size, & the short ones on top.

To get the high & low affects, do the areas in a spotting style, a bit more fidly but works.  Again use the long fibres first & then let dry, & add more to gain the extra height with respray & applications.

On method I did use was to get some cheap grass mats, & finely scrap off some layers of the grass to thin it out, then apply the grass off it by the applicator as its also static grass as well.
"a6et"

Hey a6et where do you get the grass stocks from?does it work on polystyrene? thanks for your insight sofar
  a6et Minister for Railways

Hi does anyone know where these are available locally Oatley list it out of stock .Also any pics of layed grass and does it do longer tufts aswell
Pictures if available please.
TIA anzac
"anzac1959"


Anzac

Give Oatley a ring & see how long before they are in stock. I think it would be worth the wait.

I have just done some new grassing, & noticed the screws holding the unit in place inside the tube were loose, then noticed one of the lugs had broken.  I resecured the unit with one end, & noticed the disadvantage of using pipe, as screwing in the unit creates some pressure as it is flat & the pipe is naturally oval, with it secured by one screw I filled the rear of it with clear roof & gutte silicone to hold it tight but it will also come out if needed.

I am not sure how it would work with tuffs, but if the tuffs are of the same type of material I would not think it would not work.

Also it does work with the various lengthes of static grasses, as I use all the available lengths in the colours suitable for my layouts, without any issues. Use the longer ones first, then build up with each size, & the short ones on top.

To get the high & low affects, do the areas in a spotting style, a bit more fidly but works.  Again use the long fibres first & then let dry, & add more to gain the extra height with respray & applications.

On method I did use was to get some cheap grass mats, & finely scrap off some layers of the grass to thin it out, then apply the grass off it by the applicator as its also static grass as well.
"a6et"

Hey a6et where do you get the grass stocks from?does it work on polystyrene? thanks for your insight sofar
"anzac1959"

Any Hobby shop sells static grass in either bags or shake containers.

In what way do you mean works on polystyrene?

If you are wanting to apply the static grass it will stick to any surface, providing you apply the glues to the surface.

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