I see my message about wanting a lining pen is getting thru,the thread got locked because it was in the wrong spot, I reposted, thinking it was going into here but guess where it went? Roachie kindly informed me off my error and how to post here by hitting the reply button, maybe some more info to me about my error admin may have saved some angst?
Lining pens Allan are akin to a pot style of air brush, but gravity allows the paint to flow out of the pot thru a nib to leave a fine line, various size nibs are available for various thickness lines, I hope that explains it.
These are not to be confused to Bow Pens which are akin to a Calligraphy style of pen.
They seem to be hard to get in Australia and certainly are expensive.
Perhaps we can start a thread about "use of lining pens" that doesn't contravene admin rules???
Wayne
Poath what type of paint and ratios did you use to line your pictured first attempt at lining
Allan,
I just tested it and it worked fine for me. Give it another attempt please.
Best regards,
John
Humbrol enamel, straight from the tin. Did a few lines on a piece of scrap styrene, thought "this is too easy!", then tried my luck on the model using a metal ruler as a guide to keep the line straight.
There is an article in issue 1 of "Branchline Modeller" (later issues became the "Australian Journal of Railway Modelling") that shows the pen being used to line an SJM CUB set, that article convinced me to buy the pen.
... The BM pens have a finer nib (.02mm) so that may be a differentiator.
Doubt it Rob. The other one has a 0.25mm nib. Hang on. 0.02mm? That is fine! I wonder if paint would run through it. Perhaps why they use ink rather than paint.
I model HO so would not need a line that fine. The buff lines on the NSW carriages are within the range possible with the four options 0.25; 0.5; 0.75 or 1mm. Perhaps N scalers want a finer nib, but I wonder about paint flowing through a capillary diameter tube.
By the way, does anyone know the width of the two buff lines on NSW cars of the late 1950s early 1960s? Can't find it in the Coaching Stock reference book. My guess would be about 2.5" for the lower one and 1.25" for the one above the windows. Do not treat that as authoritative - my guesstimate only.
Best regards,
John
Rotring pens.....you have awakened my past as a surveying student in the 70s.
I still have about 10 pens and 15 interchangeable heads/nibs etc. The question is, what to use for paint/ink? I have a feeling that paint/ink dilute enough to flow through a fine point may be too thin and tend to run, too thick and it won't flow...but if it did it would stay put!
Has anyone experimented with paint/ink/dilution in a Rotring?
Hi Gremlin,
I used diluted acrylics in a Rotring before I found the Exactoscale ink but it ruined the pen. More to the point my attempts to clean the pen afterwards were what ruined the pen. It actually worked so if you're prepared to sacrifice a pen in a massive lining session then it might work out. Or find a way to clean the pen that doesn't ruin it.
Cheers
Rob
Will some one please tell me about these lining pens that are not bow pens?
Rob
Did you use the Rotring cleaning solution or some other method? What was ruined, the barrel, the internal nib or something else?
By the way, does anyone know the width of the two buff lines on NSW cars of the late 1950s early 1960s? Can't find it in the Coaching Stock reference book. My guess would be about 2.5" for the lower one and 1.25" for the one above the windows. Do not treat that as authoritative - my guesstimate only.
Best regards,
John
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