Jerky loco

 
  Speedbird Train Controller

hi again... I've made like 3 threads in the last couple weeks. Sorry!
Recently purchased an Austrain 80 class. It's jerky in one direction to the point that it has uncoupled while running.

You can see the couplers bunching up then stretching fairly quickly. I've tried to find a remedy but can't at all.

Any ideas what causes this and how to fix? Thanks !

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  Newcastle Express Chief Commissioner

Where did you buy it from, or did you buy it second hand from a private person?
  Speedbird Train Controller

I bought it second hand from someone with a good name on this for
  Newcastle Express Chief Commissioner

Okay thanks, my post was only going to deal with official retailers, not from a private sale.

But have you contacted him, (or her) about it?

Oh, forget have ye cleanith thou trackiths?
  Speedbird Train Controller

Haha ze tracks are cleanith

It's an issue with the actual loco. I did contact the person just asking for advice. I've run it out but still jerky.
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
Okay thanks, my post was only going to deal with official retailers, not from a private sale.

But have you contacted him, (or her) about it?

Oh, forget have ye cleanith thou trackiths?
Newcastle Express
Yes he has.

I purchased  direct from Austrains when they first came out. It  then sat in the box unused until I decided to sell it, then for the first time it came out of the box for it's photo for my for sale section. Then put back in the box.

The next time it came out was when it was purchased. It was tested on a 1M test track I had, first time ever it had run.

He then let me know it has problems. Thought as it had never ran it was  just stiff. Seems now I think the mech may need  checking to see if one end is free or binding, ie is there enough lubrication or not enough. Note I have ni idea re the problem, and like everyone else , speculating.

Not all people rip people off. Always interesting to see people think of that first.  I know Speedbird would contact me if he does  worry. After all  he knows where I live, and my post id's me well and truly.  And I will help.

So back to trying to work out what went wrong Smile

David Head
  apw5910 Chief Commissioner

Location: Location: Location.
Haha ze tracks are cleanith

It's an issue with the actual loco. I did contact the person just asking for advice. I've run it out but still jerky.
Speedbird
Have you run it on the bench, upside down with power attached? And if so, is it still jerky in that direction? With power applied on the wheel treads and bypassing the wheels and connecting to the motor directly. I don't have one, so I'm guessing here: eg are the pickups bent or dirty? They should be smoothly connecting to the wheels in both directions. Hunting this down can be tedious, but you have to eliminate where the intermittent contact or short circuit is happening.
  Speedbird Train Controller

Yeah David hasn't done anything wrong. The loco ran fine when we checked it. But as it has been run in, that's when it started.

David even gave me a good price on it and was honest that it had been sitting in the box for a while.

So don't stress Dave! You haven't ripped me off Smile
  Booly Junior Train Controller

I had the same problem on 1st run 80 class and what i found (which i think was a common problem on early Austrains loco's)is the coating on the bogie frames where the axle blocks sit acts as an insulator , where it is meant to be the connection from the axle-block-frame-wiring -motor. Dismantled bogies scraped off the coating where the blocks sit and problem fixed.
Hope this helps
  Speedbird Train Controller

The headlights don't flicker at all which is something I should have mentioned.

That indicates to me not an electrical problem. But it's jerky like it could be. Or it could be mechanical.

But do you have any photos of what area you are talking about Booly?
  Newcastle Express Chief Commissioner

Ooooh, my aching um ur everywhere, it really hurts, to continue

Can you upload a video of it going of it on the track, say one way forward, then the other way back?

Not all people rip people off. Always interesting to see people think of that first.
dthead
I didn't say or think of that.
  linton78 Train Controller

Location: South Coast NSW
If like you say it seems fine electrically, perhaps check the worm gear keepers (cover thingy). One of my XPT power cars began to run badly and I found the keeper plate dislodged on one side. This can happen from simply handling the model sometimes.
  petan Chief Commissioner

Location: Waiting to see a zebra using a zebra crossing!
Marcus Ammann’s website has a suggestion with instructional pictures Smilehttp://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn1/poor_80.htm
Source URL http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/index.htm

EDIT; Speedbird, I see you wrote it is not an electrical problem so no need for the fix I suggested. But maybe keep that 80 class repair URL as it might come in handy later, especially others pages on Marcus'  DCC pages.
  Booly Junior Train Controller

Thanks Petan i knew there was a page somewhere that had pictures & instructions about the problem that  i had described .
  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
Some locomotives made by Austrains and some others can have the drive shaft from the motor come off and do things like this. I have several Austrains locomotives for friends across my work bench for this. Really tight curves do it The C classes are notorious for it as are the CL's etc. It is simply that the drive shaft and the pieces that hold it in place are too loose and under certain conditions it can pop out of one or the other. You have to virtually disassemble the model to get to them, but it is usually only screws needing removal along with the metal weight inside it.

Put them back on by removing the worm gear cover and then on the motor end of it move the piece that end closer to the bogie a bit more it does not need much though, and the actual drive shaft should still have a little back and forth movement in the fittings but not as much as before. If that is the problem then do the other end as well, while you have the loco apart. Put it all back together and screw down the metal weight back to the underframe and you have done it.

These locomotives above ran well in one direction but protested in the other direction though which sounds like your problem. You do not have to remove the bogies etc though but be careful handling it with the worm gear cover removed.

One other thing I have found with Chinese made models is the soldering is shocking, a cold joint as it is called could also be the problem. These joints conduct electricity to start with but then after a while they let go and you can get erratic running. So check all solder joins you can find in one especially on the bogies, by gentle tugging at the wires if it lets go, resolder it properly and then try the loco and see if it is improved.
  Speedbird Train Controller

Yes David Peters! That might be the problem!!

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