It might also be worth cleaning the wheels with Isopropyl alcohol too. These new models were possibly given some sort of protective coating over the exposed metal parts to prevent tarnishing/oxidation. If such a coating has been applied, it is probably of a type of oil-based product. Just a thought....I could be totally wrong.

Earlier in this thread, comment was made about the Eureka 60 class and how its tractive effort can be improved. With my 3 Garratts, I went one (giant) step further and totally altered the method of boiler support; such that the total weight of the boiler now rests on the 2 motorised bodies instead of the inner bogies (which now just go along for the ride).

Unfortunately, nobody I know has come up with a method of utilising the weight of the front of the tender to add to the weight carried by the rear of the loco proper. I still think this could be feasible, but I'm stuffed if I can work out exactly how to achieve it (yet)......I've only been pondering this problem for about 40 years, so maybe in the next 40 years I might work it out. If I do, you blokes and sheilas will be the first to know!!! hahaha

Roachie

Bill

I saw a similar method that you have mentioned, & I tried that & converted it back to how it was & simply put the extra bits of weight in the tank, along with the strip under the keeper plate.  I have always had a 1:40 grade on my layout before the lead weight was added that grade provided problems, now it provides none.

While adding the flashing to the rear or bunker unit is not needed, I have a strip for it just in case.

One thing I have found with all my plastic RTR models is that as the are run in a bit, & the polished tyres get some dirt on them, along with the smooth polished tread also looses their lustre the models all tend to pull better. Good idea to run them around the layout for several sessions with a non problematic load & wear the model in a bit.

My R Class (R717 Weathered with sound) arrived today at 13:05PM looks great. Now I just have to wait until Sunday to run it on HMRG's layout Kilmore East.

........Unfortunately, nobody I know has come up with a method of utilising the weight of the front of the tender to add to the weight carried by the rear of the loco proper. I still think this could be feasible, but I'm stuffed if I can work out exactly how to achieve it (yet)......I've only been pondering this problem for about 40 years, so maybe in the next 40 years I might work it out. If I do, you blokes and sheilas will be the first to know!!! hahaha

Roachie

Roachie,

you need to get and meet more people, Frank Kelly and others (including I) have been doing it for years.  Grab a stack of old AMRMs and read Frank's stuff, it's a funny scale, gauge and prototype but just read NSWGR whenever you see VR and you will get though ok.

Mark

I believe Frank Kelly has a method of putting the weight of the tender onto the loco to help with traction. Not sure what issue of AMRM I read that in. Be worth a search of the index if you were so inclined.

The tender is pretty light, and looking at the included manual, there isn't any weight in the tender, just the speakers and decoder. And WOW is it loud out of the box! Rattling the tender loud!

Some of the sounds seem "off" (filling the tender with water) and there's a constant 'whistling' sound (akin to a jet sound?). I will have to give it another try on the NCE system at the club tomorrow night - I tried it on a Z21 system tonight with a fellow club member so maybe that's why, but I wouldn't think so.

Wolfpac

I worked A WCR R711, but for earlier posts I'm told there were problems w/- the tender top profile & the WCR Models wouldn't be out to later, just have to keep waiting patiently... I may see mine before it hits the 10Yr mark since the models were announced!

I worked A WCR R711, but for earlier posts I'm told there were problems w/- the tender top profile & the WCR Models wouldn't be out to later, just have to keep waiting patiently... I may see mine before it hits the 10Yr mark since the models were announced!

It was in the Aug 2013 Eureka Times:

WCR locomotives R 711 and R 766 will not be available with this first run as it has been decided that to do the model properly a new tender top is required and the tooling for this is underway.

Wolfpac

Having confirmed my street address with Ron the previous Sunday (noting that some folk could have changed addresses at least once during the 7 yr gestation period) I looked every day this past week for a card in the mail saying there was a package for me at the local p.o. Even went up one day to see if there was anything there, thinking the postman might have put the card in the wrong letterbox. When it hadnt arrived by Friday, asked if I could pick it up my R class  from Sans Souci on Sat morning so I could give it a run on the club layout that afternoon. This was duly done. Ron was happy to have one less to worry about posting.
I had some trouble initially getting the plug from the tender to go into the socket on the engine. The plate covering the gap between the engine and tender, while a welcome touch as far as the model goes, kept getting in the way. After a few false starts (which included finding out that the loco wont run unless the cable from the tender is connected fully) I finally got it running. Was impressed with the smoothness, quietness and response, no wobble.........very nice. I set it up with a train of 14 Lima four wheel GY wagons and SEM Z van. Not what you would call a particularly heavy load.  It had no problem till it got halfway up a moderate grade, where it slipped to a stand. Oh dear! Later I tied it with a train of 4 Auscision VR coaches and a BP van, plus a Powerline S coach, a pretty typical load for an R class, only to find it had the same problem in the same place.
Obviously needs more weight on the drivers. Anyone else made a discovery like this? Am I going to have to make a liberal application of Bullfrog Snot in the appropriate places? Is there enough room inside the boiler for more weight? I am not game, at this stage, to take the body off the chassis.

Before removing the body to add weight, I would suggest you remove the springs from the leading and trailing trucks. It then should have no problem pulling a prototypical load up a scale grade as long as your carriages are free rolling and not over weighted.

Terry Flynn.

My model arrived on the weekend. Even though I ordered R761 as preserved, I ended up with R727. It doesn't matter though since both are standard coal burner models anyway. The plan is to re-number it in due course as the plates on the model are only plastic with the number printed on.

You can read some of my thoughts on my blog: http://mattsvicrailmodelling.blogspot.com.au/

One improvement I have already made (on one side at this stage) is to do something about those shiny driving wheels. 2 coats of Humbrol #85 Satin coal black applied to the drivings wheels as well as the leading and trailing trucks seems to have made a difference:

Before:



After:

Australia Post surprised me by delivering my loco (R704) on Sunday morning!

Had a brief tinker, and found the following:

- the dismal droop in the front coupler can be improved by putting a small washer under the bracket, then re-tighening the screw (the design of the bracket is such that the thing droops as the screw goes in).  The coupler itself is not Eureka's finest work - there's gotta be something better out there!

Had all sorts of trouble trying to get the loco and tender coupled in the closer position - loosening the drawbar screw makes the task much easier, and may help you avoid damaging your footplate.

Has anyone tried adjusting the headlight?  All the models I've seen photos of (including mine) seem to be afflicted by the headlight being focussed skyward.  I'm not keen on risking breaking the mount trying to get it loose to adjust it.  It's one of the those little things which really detracts from the appearance of the loco.

Am pretty happy with my loco, but I reckon if I ordered a 707 and my loco turned up looking different to the advertised photo, I'd be pretty peeved......

Cheers!

Well Motorman412, I wouldn't mention the 707 being different from the photo on the website, you will be shot down pretty quick on here. Apparently we shouldn't expect what's in the picture.

Spoke ron today and my order never got put through but is all fixed now and is in the post.

Haven't read it in here yet but on the website site it says it's got a "Detailed cab including crew", is this the case in models people have received?

Has anyone tried adjusting the headlight?  All the models I've seen photos of (including mine) seem to be afflicted by the headlight being focussed skyward.  I'm not keen on risking breaking the mount trying to get it loose to adjust it.  It's one of the those little things which really detracts from the appearance of the loco.

The headlight is a simple press fit, if you give it a tug it'll come off and you'll see the wires that power it and the obvious mounting lug which is offset to one side. Anyway to get it level just apply a bit of pressure from the front  while visually keeping it level. I'd suggest putting the pressure on as close to the mount rather than using the front of the light as the pressure point.

There is a small cutout in the foam lining of the box, you should find various replacement couplers in there including a nice looking hook and a swivel coupler. No sign of a crew, must be having a crib break...

Beyond burning the 'midnight' oil on this update, but an update re: R Class:

http://eurekamodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/r-class-movements.html

Wolfpac

Beyond burning the 'midnight' oil on this update, but an update re: R Class:

http://eurekamodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/r-class-movements.html

Wolfpac

I refuse to ring him, I paid in 06 and confirmed running number (727) and delivery details a few months back, there is no need for he to ring I (if that's proper English).

Mark

I rang and mine was in the post yesterday apparently.

I refuse to ring him, I paid in 06 and confirmed running number (727) and delivery details a few months back, there is no need for he to ring I (if that's proper English).

Mark

I had the same attitude regarding delivery of the three 38's I had fully paid up years before but eventually gave in and rang him even thought I had confirmed my delivery details as well. We'll see how long you can hold out.

I rang, initially he was at the post office, then later on he found payment details unusual and has will post the 2 R's.  I would ring not on principle but to ensure you get what one paid for, and to ensure he knows. If for some reason he thinks a order is not paid for, it will be at the end of the list. Glad I rang as that almost happened to me.

Now anticipation for  paecel next week

Regards,
DavidHead

I rang today and confirmed my order for R707 (fully paid a couple of years ago). It was to be posted today.

For those not thinking of not calling - that's up to you. Even if it shouldn't be necessary, I look at it this way - it's typically going to be less than 10 minutes of your time (took me only 2 minutes), means you've confirmed the details with him and mostly likely will have it posted out in the next day. Just depends on whether you want to wait for him to get around to checking your order or not - and as the blog says, that could be another two weeks.

Just depends on whether you want to wait for him to get around to checking your order or not - and as the blog says, that could be another two weeks.

But the blog also states  "Priority in distribution is being given to fully paid orders" so if you paid in full in 2006 as Mark did you should not have to wait that long.

But the blog also states  "Priority in distribution is being given to fully paid orders" so if you paid in full in 2006 as Mark did you should not have to wait that long.

Quite true. But then David fell through the cracks there.

It can't hurt to confirm, anyway. At worst, you've lost a few minutes of your time. On the other hand, you may have significantly reduced wait before your order arrives.

Isn't it kind of silly to not ring if you haven't had yours arrive and not see where it's at. Only person suffering is yourself, just to prove a point that one shouldn't have to ring...

Wolfpac

Its has already been said if you live in Sydney go and pick it up ,but ring first . All my Eureka locos have been picked up from his place.

Well i also paid for mine back in 06.
I also rang the day they arrived in Port and was told they were to be posted by the Friday.
Nothing for 2 weeks so i rang again and was told on Tuesday they would be in the mail that day. Still nothing.

However i know of at least 3 or 4 others that have rung up and paid for some after they have arrived in port. And they already have theirs. Same place and i still have nothing.
So i am skeptical about the statement that fully paid orders will be given priority.

This was shot on the Grampian Model Railroaders inc layout on Thursday night, one of club members r class on DC.
There are a very nice model and the sound does sound like a R class.  
one member is still waiting on his to turn up and he paid 4 years ago


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-1wmoxY04c

You really ought to think about canning those annoying disruptive telephone calls to him if you want your models delivered within a reasonable time.
If there are 100 people unnecessarily  ringing up and the average call takes 10 minutes, how many hours is the processing, packaging and posting procedure of the locos disrupted?
Let him do his work.