Eureka R Class Arrives!

 
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
You really ought to think about canning those annoying disruptive telephone calls to him if you want your models delivered within a reasonable time.
If there are 100 people unnecessarily  ringing up and the average call takes 10 minutes, how many hours is the processing, packaging and posting procedure of the locos disrupted?
Let him do his work.
tezza
Generally good advise, but he did ask people to ring.  see:

http://eurekamodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/r-class-movements.html

If  I hadn't rung I would have been near the end of the  postout, if at all when I had fully paid. So I rang.  

Regards,
David Head

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  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
Generally good advise, but he did ask people to ring.  see:

http://eurekamodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/r-class-movements.html

If  I hadn't rung I would have been near the end of the  postout, if at all when I had fully paid. So I rang.  

Regards,
David Head
dthead
Some may have died or moved or something so ringing him is a good idea to update your details and also refresh his memory. Seeing as he asked to be contacted he must have the time. You only need confirm a few things, 10 minutes per phone call is a bit much you want to check your details etc not have a long chin wag with him.
  LaidlayM Chief Commissioner

Location: Research
Some may have died or moved or something so ringing him is a good idea to update your details and also refresh his memory. Seeing as he asked to be contacted he must have the time. You only need confirm a few things, 10 minutes per phone call is a bit much you want to check your details etc not have a long chin wag with him.
David Peters
Eureka requested an update from all customers in September 2013, just on three months, I supplied information and he acknowledged such.  Why ring (or ask people to ring) when he has such recent detail from fully paid customers?

Maybe he is more interested in new revenue from part paid or new customers than supplying product to those who paid many years back?

Mark
  BillWh Beginner

Bill

I saw a similar method that you have mentioned, & I tried that & converted it back to how it was & simply put the extra bits of weight in the tank, along with the strip under the keeper plate.  I have always had a 1:40 grade on my layout before the lead weight was added that grade provided problems, now it provides none.

While adding the flashing to the rear or bunker unit is not needed, I have a strip for it just in case.

One thing I have found with all my plastic RTR models is that as the are run in a bit, & the polished tyres get some dirt on them, along with the smooth polished tread also looses their lustre the models all tend to pull better. Good idea to run them around the layout for several sessions with a non problematic load & wear the model in a bit.
a6et

I thought it might be a bogies taking too much weight off the drivers situation, so last Wed at my club I set up the same train of 14 Lima 4 wheel GY wagons and Z van and took both front and rear bogies of the loco, so that I had an 0-6-0 R class. Set it running on the same line, and it failed again on the same grade. So the problem wasnt that. Looks like I might see what happens with an application of Frog Snot to say the two rear driving wheels. application of this stuff is not irreversible and is used by some of the most fastidious modellers in our club.
I think there might also be something in the idea that a build-up of crud on the wheels might help.
fot the record, I tried my vintage Austrains 36, one of the first of the first batch, on the same train and it had no trouble getting up the hill with that load.
Later I put my full complement of GY wagons on, 28 plus van, and put my flat-top T in the shafts, and boy did it look good.
  a6et Minister for Railways

I thought it might be a bogies taking too much weight off the drivers situation, so last Wed at my club I set up the same train of 14 Lima 4 wheel GY wagons and Z van and took both front and rear bogies of the loco, so that I had an 0-6-0 R class. Set it running on the same line, and it failed again on the same grade. So the problem wasnt that. Looks like I might see what happens with an application of Frog Snot to say the two rear driving wheels. application of this stuff is not irreversible and is used by some of the most fastidious modellers in our club.
I think there might also be something in the idea that a build-up of crud on the wheels might help.
fot the record, I tried my vintage Austrains 36, one of the first of the first batch, on the same train and it had no trouble getting up the hill with that load.
Later I put my full complement of GY wagons on, 28 plus van, and put my flat-top T in the shafts, and boy did it look good.
BillWh

I would try putting the bogies back on without the springs & see how it goes. The Austrains 36 as delivered in both batches are not the best pulling engines, with the 35 being slightly worse, the complete removal of the springs makes a difference to the pulling power though.

I would definitely look at putting some lead flashing above the 3 drivers if it was possible & if possible under the keeper plate between the drivers.
  TheBlacksmith Chief Commissioner

Location: Ankh Morpork
It certainly appears that the model is suffering from lack of adhesion if the wheels slip. But not if the locomotive just simply stalls, then it is a lack of motor power. It would be interesting, if someone could be bothered doing the measurement, to know what the weight of the locomotive only section is, and how the weight is distributed over the six drivers, i.e. is it tail heavy? Depending on the answers to these questions, you can then decide on how to add and place additional weight.

Adhesion is also affected by the type of metal used for the driving wheel tyres, in that nickel silver is more slippery than steel for example. These days the best material for driving wheels is probably stainless steel.

However I would never advocate the use of Bullfrog Snot, it is a very poor method of increasing adhesion. You loose power collection on those wheels and increase the amount of rubbish pick up by the wheels.
  a6et Minister for Railways

It certainly appears that the model is suffering from lack of adhesion if the wheels slip. But not if the locomotive just simply stalls, then it is a lack of motor power. It would be interesting, if someone could be bothered doing the measurement, to know what the weight of the locomotive only section is, and how the weight is distributed over the six drivers, i.e. is it tail heavy? Depending on the answers to these questions, you can then decide on how to add and place additional weight.

Adhesion is also affected by the type of metal used for the driving wheel tyres, in that nickel silver is more slippery than steel for example. These days the best material for driving wheels is probably stainless steel.

However I would never advocate the use of Bullfrog Snot, it is a very poor method of increasing adhesion. You loose power collection on those wheels and increase the amount of rubbish pick up by the wheels.
TheBlacksmith

The TOR 32 has Stainless steel wheels, & I find they tend to pick up a lot of black muck on the wheels more so than other loco's, also being polished until the wheels are worn in a bit tend to also be more prone to slipping than the other NS fitted wheels.

As they wear in they do improve in the pulling power, the problem is really getting the weight distributed evenly, & why I like getting the lead flashing under the keeper plate right across the length of the driving wheels, rather than just in a single spot such as the dome.

I understand that other than the Rclass, the only remaining steam loco's to be built at the old SDK factory is the 59cl, not sure about the 38cl reruns which will mean the 59's are likely to come with the same problems if it comes with plastic body, anyway like the 40cl the 59cl were quite prone to slipping so may be prototypical I guess, but will be also a pain for the modeller to overcome.

The use of the snot, is it not designed more for using on models that have traction tyres?
  jamiepb Junior Train Controller

Has anyone tried adding weight yet? If so how and where. Mine also has some issues with bits falling off. Brake gear under the tender, staff exchanger and no number on the tender. Also the loose brake gear caused it to derail and the fall plate broke as a result. It doesn't like the slight grade on my layout at all. All help gratefully accepted.
  LowndesJ515 #TeamRog

Location: Not in Victoria
Has anyone tried adding weight yet? If so how and where. Mine also has some issues with bits falling off. Brake gear under the tender, staff exchanger and no number on the tender. Also the loose brake gear caused it to derail and the fall plate broke as a result. It doesn't like the slight grade on my layout at all. All help gratefully accepted.
jamiepb
Like like the real thing with the tender number plate falling off! haha
  TheBlacksmith Chief Commissioner

Location: Ankh Morpork
Bullfrog Snot is touted as being the answer to all sorts of problems, but it is no better than traction tyres, which in themselves are evil devices. The best approach is to increase the adhesive weight, which means adding weight over the drivers to increase weight on them alone.

But until someone can post here saying what the loco weighs, it is hard to give a figure. We also need to know if there is room in the boiler area. Under the keeper plate is dicey as often there is too little clearance there. Granted, it is probably the ideal place to add weight, as it is under the drivers and low down.
  jamiepb Junior Train Controller

I think the centre driver on these things sits higher, or lower depending on your point of reference, so at any time only 4 drivers are actually touching the rails. I added a strip of lead to the keeper plate with some double sided tape but it still slips at low speed on the grade. Can someone else run a straight edge over the drivers to confirm my theory please.
  jamiepb Junior Train Controller

Ok, removing the front spring actually makes it run worse. The pony truck is very light and derails easily.
So remove trailing tuck.
Remove pony truck
Remove 4 screws that hold the boiler onto the frame.
Top will come off
There is room for lead in the dome and I also got a piece above the motor.
Insulate with