Fleischmann turntable

 
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
Purchased a fleischmann turntable off JohnSargent years ago, and now  finally fitting it to the layout. Have gotit to work, sort of but have a few questions.

1. ideal voltage to run, AC or DC ?

2. any wiring for the switch, as I wonder if I can use a less dedicated switch. I have googled and only found a site to usea rotary switch to select roads. I just want to select  clockwise/off/counterclockwise as a momentary switch.

3.  For DCC I had intended to connect the turntable bridge to sa reverser. Then I also remmebered the turntable also electrically connects to the exit roads. Do I have to keep these as part of the bridge & reverser, or as a seperate block, I htink as part, then isolate from all exot roads and storage roads.

Any help appriciated.

Regards,
David Head

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  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
David,

1. I used the AC output from a cheap/old transformer (16vac I reckon)

2. Sorry, can't help here....I just used the rotary switch that came with the t/t....it indexes properly and not sure why you'd want to NOT use it.

3. I run DCC also and decided the to connect a MRC (cheap) auto-reverser which works well. I decided to completely remove the 2 "tabs" at the ends, so there is no transfer of power from the t/t to the approach roads/s. On reflection, I could have insulated each approach road  for an inch or so, so that the passing tabs didn't cause issues. Having used the cheap reverser, I do notice an occasional spark as a wheel crosses onto/off the bridge. I have thought of replacing it with a PSX-AR auto reverser, but the spark isn't that bad, so I can't justify wasting the extra money on it at the moment.

Cheers mate

Roachie
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
thanks Roachie,  several people who have recently  been to my layout will be appalled that this mormning I ripped out the turntable, well uninstalled it, to check the tabs.  Found them and bent one slightly - the turntable is now routing both rails ( it was only routing one side ) - but are undecided if I then cut those tabs so the table is it's own section.

To keep the tab or not that is the question !

I can put the turntable back in without too much effort when I'm ready.....

Regards,
David Head
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
thanks Roachie,  several people who have recently  been to my layout will be appalled that this mormning I ripped out the turntable, well uninstalled it, to check the tabs.  Found them and bent one slightly - the turntable is now routing both rails ( it was only routing one side ) - but are undecided if I then cut those tabs so the table is it's own section.

To keep the tab or not that is the question !

I can put the turntable back in without too much effort when I'm ready.....

Regards,
David Head
dthead
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
Keep the tabs and isolate the ends of the rails supplied with the turntable.

The turntable cannot work from a DC supply.

The Fleischmann TT I powered up ran from a variable AC supply that I built, I don't know what voltage it ran on, it was potentiometer adjusted and ran off whatever voltage made the TT work nicely. It was likely something like 14VAC, not much more the motor will scream it's tits off if you give it too many volts.

It is now connected to a decoder that I custom made for it. The original control still works for rotating the bridge, but through DCC you can now select a function number and the bridge will rotate to that position on it's own, or at the touch of another function button it will rotate through 180 degrees. There's some other functionality as well, like changing the rail polarity not through short sensing, but by remembering if the table has reversed and needs a polarity change.
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
Just had a look at some of my design files. The turntable motor is now driven from PWM DC (don't try this at home) about 17VDC give or take. This suggests to me that you ought to use something about 13-14VAC, not much more than that. I don't have a documented note as to why I chose to use 17VDC, but there must have been a reason at the time else I wouldn't have been so specific to myself...

EDIT: Didn't realise I provided a PWM drive to the TT motor, sometimes I go to more effort than I should!
  wally-wowser1 Train Controller

Location: overlooking the Mt vic washaway on Soldiers Pinch
Check out the Marklin Users forum or Fleischmann forums . These 2 companies worked together to produce this turntable many years ago  , Marklins model # is  7286 , not sure what Fleischmann's  is.

  Wally
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
Marklins model # is  7286 , not sure what Fleischmann's  is.

  Wally
wally-wowser1
9152
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
Thanks Aaron.

Regards,
David Head
  miktrain Deputy Commissioner

Location: Adelaide SA
1. ideal voltage to run, AC or DC ?

3.  For DCC I had intended to connect the turntable bridge to sa reverser. Then I also remmebered the turntable also electrically connects to the exit roads. Do I have to keep these as part of the bridge & reverser, or as a seperate block, I htink as part, then isolate from all exot roads and storage roads.
dthead
The instructions say 15 volts AC

Ours uses the centre contact to switch a latching relay as it passes the halfway point so even if power to the layout is off, the polarity is right on power up. At least that is the way it was unless Aaron needed to change it when adding the DCC control.

https://ozfreemo.com/members/index.php/Aaron/NMRIPermanentLayout/Turntable/IMG_2065 The tracks that have the wheels on them and the ones next to them are actually the power feeds for the relay. One has +12 volts and the other 0 volts and the same on the other side but reversed positions so as the table passes the first pair it is switched to what it already is set to and then the second pair switch it to the reverse. This is done so that it works which ever way the table is turning.

Tony

Edit to update link
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
The instructions say 15 volts AC

Ours uses the centre contact to switch a latching relay as it passes the halfway point so even if power to the layout is off, the polarity is right on power up. At least that is the way it was unless Aaron needed to change it when adding the DCC control.

http://noarail.com/members/index.php/Aaron/NMRIPermanentLayout/Turntable/IMG_2065 The tracks that have the wheels on them and the ones next to them are actually the power feeds for the relay. One has +12 volts and the other 0 volts and the same on the other side but reversed positions so as the table passes the first pair it is switched to what it already is set to and then the second pair switch it to the reverse. This is done so that it works which ever way the table is turning.

Tony
miktrain
Tony and Aaron,

I'm guessing that the way you've done all this still allows sound-equipped locos to maintain their sound whilst being turned (without interruption)?
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
The latching relay and polarity of bridge track reversal at those stubs tracks is still connected, but only when the TT is being used for DC locomotives. When running on DCC that functionality is bypassed and all handled by the decoder. If DCC is being used on the bridge track then DCC is always present, so yes, sound locos remain with engines running/in steam etc. clearly this cannot be the case on DC control.

It seems this is another feature of the layout I need to spend some time documenting in photo and video.
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
Co-incidentally to this thread, or maybe because someone has been reading it without telling me it was discovered yesterday that the TT was not operating as expected. I had a very brief look at it and it seems as though an over zealous person has pulled a wire down, preventing operation. On the bright side, this will give me cause to get under the TT and take some photos of 'the works' whilst I undertake the fix.
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
Aaron, any idea re the controller, is there anything to replace it ?  

Regards,
David Head
  Aaron The Ghost of George Stephenson

Location: University of Adelaide SA
Aaron, any idea re the controller, is there anything to replace it ?  

Regards,
David Head
dthead
A momentary on both sides, centre off toggle switch - (on) off (on) should be able to do the trick, so could two push buttons, one for CW, one for CCW, the thing is you'd have to be careful that both were not pressed at the same time.

Turns out I might be able to get to the TT tomorrow night now, will have a closer look then.

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