Thanks for the advice guys. I bought the set (2 x panel mount controllers & 1 × 4 Amp Power Pack) secondhand on Ebay and contacted the manufacturer as they had no fact sheets or online manuals, they told me that the controllers can be run from the 17 Amp AC or the DC , which has me confused because I thought AC is only for Accessories and trains are run from DC and the controllers can be daisy chained to one another.
Firstly, this is important, you cannot typically 'daisy chain' the power into your controllers. Under some circumstances you can, the first website I linked to earlier IIRC outlines the very specific case in which you might be able to, it's always best not to though. One transformer per controller, and you'll always be pretty safe.
AC means 'Alternating Current' in lay terms, it basically means that the elctrons in your wires are pushed along a bit and then pulled back a bit as the voltage swings between + and - volts. It's similarity to 'ACcessory' is mere coincidence, but it's often used with accessories with good reason. It's actually nice and efficient, and in some cases, your accessories actually require the alternating voltage.
DC means 'Direct Current' the 'electricity' always flows from + to - (that's not actually true, and the current actually flows from - to +, but it's easier to think of it + to -).
Some circuits are capable of accepting either AC or DC power into them, typically, if you have the option to use AC use it, if your device is DC input only, you'll of course be using DC input.
I took your advice and decided to use my cheaper Jouef controller/power pack to run the lighting. I was originally using the Jouef with a Cyclops controller attached to it to run the the two separate tracks until I had seen the CDA set thinking it would be easier cause I could mount the controllers rather than have two bulk controllers sitting on my layout.
That's entirely sensible.
Is there ever a tidy way of wiring layouts?
Yes and no, the neatest wiring is usually achieved by having only the minimum required length in wires, the excess hanging look being particularly ugly. This however for a layout whilst neat is the most pain in the butt thing to do.
The trick is to keep your wiring a bit longer than required so that for example you can remove your controllers from the layout, flip them upside down or whatever and get to the circuit without having to disconnect everything or worse still, break wires in moving it.
Where possible, keep wires that run in similar directions bundled together, fold up and tie up the excess lengths to help keep neatness. Both Tony and I are fans of cable ties, I must keep a small chinese family well funded making the cable ties I use on all of my work (not just model railroads). Do them up so that they'll keep your cabling neat, but if you leave them with a little extra space around your wiring bundle, when you later want to run some wires you only can feed the wire through your existing ties and you don't have to cut them off and replace them.
I have resorted to labeling my wires so I know where they run to as under my layout looks like a hornets nest of wiring.
In industry we call this documentation, it is the most tedious, horrible, annoying, pointless waste of time to do... Until you run into a problem, and suddenly, you pull out the documentation and tracing the fault is easy... Yes, ALWAYS document! In the long run it will save you infinite amounts of time and energy.