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This building front is illuminated with 2 LED's removed from a 3-LED strip. It's the "machine shop" from River Leaf Models .
The light from the "warm white" 12 volt 3-LED strips looks incandescent, and the strips can also be run on a 9 volt battery, looking quite bright.
In this example, I cut two of the LED's off the strip to use them underneath the shades that came with the structure.
This above picture shows an uncut strip and one with two cuts and jumpers to illuminate the LED's. Ordinary scissors are fine for cutting the strips.
This above picture shows the two LED's ready to be mounted in the shades. It's not something I would recommend doing, but in this case it was good to make use of the LED's and the shades. They're attached with white glue.
This is a closeup of the LED in the shade. I used 30 gauge wire , which doubles as a bracket.
It's good to test each LED individually. This is my 99 cent tester. The two batteries are wired to provide 3 volts. I added a 100 ohm resistor which drops it to 2.6 volts.
Here's a side view, in subdued room lighting the interior illumination from the 3 light strips is excellent.
Also, a ceiling view:
The two exterior LED's are connected to the short strip above the door, and two 3-LED strips are on the center beam. There's also a 470 ohm resistor reducing the voltage to 7 volts for the interior lights. The exterior lights are at about 8 volts. For modeling, 12 volts would probably makes the lights brighter than needed.
For modular setups going to train shows, 12 volts might be okay, because the room lights are typically bright.
This article first appeared on model-railroad-hobbyist.com
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